Spring is the best time to prune trees. This helps the tree form a beautiful crown, removing dried and unnecessary branches for better air circulation. This will help increase the quantity and quality of the harvest.
Why is spring pruning recommended?
Pruning trees in spring is necessary to remove damaged, weak and dried branches. This will renew the tree and stimulate the growth of new branches. The more young and strong shoots, the higher the harvest. Pruning also improves air circulation in the tree crown and light access to the fruits to stimulate and ripen the fruits.
Proper pruning requires knowledge. You can't just cut everything. Pruning is done in stages, starting in early spring, before the active sap flow phase begins. The weather should be dry, with minimal humidity. The tools for the job should be sharpened. Take care of this in advance so as not to damage the branches. This will prevent the risk of infection of both the branches and the entire tree.
The next thing to pay attention to is the formation of the tree crown. If the tree is young, this is one of the foundations of the correct formation of the tree structure, the correct growth of shoots, and the ripening of fruits. In addition, an unformed tree will be sick and, most likely, will die in the coming years, since its above-ground part provides nutrition to the developing roots. It should be larger than the root system.
Spring pruning is necessary for a number of fruit trees, such as pear, apple, peach, cherry and plum. Pear, apple and peach are pruned to form the crown and increase the tree's yield. Cherry and plum are pruned to limit the growth of branches and improve access to light for fruit ripening.
Types of spring pruning
Formative
It is used to form the crown, create the correct and convenient shape for tree care, as well as for optimal conditions for the growth and development of the fruit. During the pruning process, unnecessary branches and shoots that can intertwine with each other are removed. This is necessary in the first few years of growth. The central part of the tree is shortened to slow down the upward growth.
Regulatory
Thinning pruning is necessary to regulate the growth of the tree and maintain its health. It is necessary to remove branches that grow quickly, crookedly or incorrectly, and shorten strong shoots. This will help reduce the load on the branches and increase the quality of the fruit.
Rejuvenating
Applies to old trees. It is necessary to remove all old, dried branches. This will help restore the tree. Old branches will be replaced by new shoots. Fruiting will improve.
Sanitary
It is carried out to remove diseased, damaged and fungus-infected branches. This will prevent the spread of the disease throughout the tree and protect against pests.
Topping
This pruning is necessary to reduce the growth of young shoots, preventing the crown from becoming too thick. This helps to increase the size and quantity of fruits, as well as improve their taste. In the process, the side branches are removed, leaving the central branch and several main ones.
Crown thinning
This method increases the access of light and air inside the crown. It is necessary to remove small, young branches, which later intertwine with each other. All this increases ventilation and illumination of the fruits.
Protecting branches after pruning
Var is a special mass necessary to protect the cut. It protects the branch from disease, moisture evaporation from the cut, and also from pests.
The var is applied to the cut of the branch immediately after pruning. This will protect the cut from infection.
There are synthetic and natural types of var.
Natural
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Plant-based – resin-based. This is fir or pine. Creates a durable coating, protects well from pests and moisture.
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Beeswax – used less often, but no less effective in protecting the cut. Forms a thin film that prevents moisture evaporation.
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Flaxseed varnish – contains linseed oil as a base. Protects cuts and is an antiseptic.
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Bean or nut brew – consists of bean or nut extract, protects against pests, antiseptic.
Synthetic
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Acetate var - consists of synthetic resin and polymers. It has good and strong ability to adhere to the branch.
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Paraffin wax – made from paraffin. Does not react with air, provides good protection from moisture.
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Polyethylene base – created on the basis of polymers. Forms a film, protects cuts and does not allow air to pass through.
Natural varnish promotes natural healing. It is breathable. Synthetic varnish promotes long-term protection, retains moisture in the branches and prevents air from entering, which prevents the branches from drying out and cracking.
Before applying the var, the cut must be prepared. Clean it from any leaves or bugs that could have gotten onto the cut. Treat it with a solution of potassium permanganate. Apply the var in a thick layer and make sure that the cut is completely covered. It is necessary to monitor the cut. If cracks or peeling appear, it is necessary to apply another layer of var.
Work on applying the var is carried out in dry, warm and windless weather. This will prevent the var from getting wet and running off, and will reduce the risk of fungal diseases. When choosing a var, it is worth paying attention to the type of tree, the growing area, the climate, the presence of insect pests and diseases common in the region.
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Factors influencing the choice of type of var
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Tree variety. Each variety has its own characteristics and care requirements. For apple and pear trees, it is best to use a wax-based varnish. And for plums and cherries, a silicone-based varnish.
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Size of the cut. The larger the size, the thicker the varnish should be used. Acetate varnish is suitable for this. It has a greater ability to adhere to the branch cut and cover large cuts.
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Environmental conditions. Depending on the climate and weather conditions, we select a var with the appropriate properties. In a hot climate, a var with UV protection is suitable, and in a cold climate, a var with frost resistance. The properties of the var are indicated on the packaging and depend on the manufacturer.
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Gardener Experience: Experienced gardeners can choose the variety that would work best by experimenting with different varieties to see which works best in their particular climate.
Selecting a Var for Protection from Pests and Diseases to do this, you need to pay attention to the type, age, condition of the tree and the environment.
The following drugs are used for protection:
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Boverin – is produced from fungi growing on plant leaves. It has antibacterial and fungicidal properties, which makes it an effective means of protection against various diseases.
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Bitoxybacillin is a synthetic preparation that is produced on the basis of bacteria. It has antibacterial properties and is used to protect trees from insect pests.
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Copper sulfate is an inorganic chemical element that is used to combat fungal diseases and insect pests. It can be used as an independent preparation or in combination with other means.
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Ferrous sulfate is an inorganic chemical used to combat tree diseases. It has antibacterial properties, but can cause burns on the leaves and stems of plants. It is necessary to strictly follow the instructions.
When choosing a var, you should consider the effectiveness of the preparation, its safety for the environment, humans and animals. It is necessary to conduct a test on a small area of the tree to ensure its effectiveness and the absence of side effects.
Timing of pruning fruit trees in spring
Spring pruning is done in early spring, before the active sap flow begins, before the buds open. This time usually falls in March and April. But it is important to take into account the climatic conditions of your region.
March and early April are the time to prune large and frost-resistant trees. These are apple trees, pears, peaches, and apricots. The best time to prune fruit trees is before the end of March. April is also suitable for pruning trees, but you need to choose warm and dry days. During this period, we prune small branches - large, medium branches and trunks do not touch.
Make sure there are no flowering buds on the trees. This can negatively affect the tree and the future harvest. Spring pruning is the best. Over the summer, all the cut wounds will heal, and the tree will not get sick.
Pruning apple and pear trees
Apple and pear trees are pruned in early spring, in March, before the sap starts to flow. The temperature should be stable – above zero, since the tissues in the cuts, even treated with pitch, can freeze. A sparse-tiered scheme is suitable for pruning. A cup-shaped form is also suitable.
Pruning a peach tree
Peaches and apricots are pruned in early spring, in March, when frosts have passed. They are pruned according to a sparse-tiered pattern.
Pruning cherries, sweet cherries and plums
Plums and cherries can be pruned from March to April. Pruning at this time will help form the correct crown and increase the harvest. For bush varieties of these fruit crops, a cup-shaped crown is used. It is also suitable for cherry plum. For tree-like varieties, a sparse-tiered scheme is most suitable.
Options for forming the crown of fruit trees
Sparsely tiered
Please note that the top of the tree trunk is missing. When forming a sparse-tiered crown shape in the second year of tree growth, shorten the central trunk at a height of 70 cm. New lateral shoots will appear from the emerging buds. This will be the basis of the first tier.
Next spring, leave 3-4 strong and sturdy branches that diverge in different directions, do not shade or interfere with each other, remove the rest. And again, from the resulting shoots, select 3-4 of the strongest. This will be the second tier. Continue pruning for another 3-4 years. As a result, you will get a trunk with 10-12 lateral branches at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. When the crown is formed, cut off the remaining top of the central trunk of the tree above the upper tier. In the future, remove all vertical shoots and shoots growing inward to the crown.
Vertical
Shorten the central trunk and leave branches growing at an obtuse angle to the trunk. Each year, remove all weak branches growing inward and at an acute angle. In the spring, use weights to bend strong branches to the ground so that they grow parallel to the soil surface. From these branches, vertical shoots will emerge, which will form the basis of the vertical crown. Vertical branches should not grow densely. Leave only strong shoots, remove all the rest.
Fusiform
This option is ideal for fruit trees on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks. Cut the central trunk as when forming a sparse-tiered crown and form the branches in the same way. Only they need to be cut to a length of no more than 1 meter. The diameter of this crown should not exceed 1.5 meters. The “slender spindle” crown is formed low, no higher than 30-40 cm from the soil surface.
Cup-shaped
To form a cup-shaped form, it is necessary to remove the central trunk above the upper fork of the branches. Remove all branches of the third and fourth order growing vertically upwards, shorten branches growing downwards, to the ground.
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